If you’ve ever watched a video of someone opening vintage Pokemon cards you probably see prices in the tens of thousands of dollars popping up all over the screen and it can make the value of more recent Pokemon cards look pretty measly. This raises the question however, are new Pokemon cards even worth anything?

Well, before we dive into the numbers, first, let’s get an understanding of what we mean by a new Pokemon card. A new Pokemon card, by our definition, is any card that came out in the modern era of Pokemon i.e. X & Y onwards. This includes Sun & Moon, Sword & Shield, Scarlet & Violet, and any promos and subsets that may have come out between these sets. This isn’t to suggest that cards from the Black & White era are “vintage” but they are much closer to vintage than they are new.

Now, with a definition in mind, let’s get a better idea of how expensive these new Pokemon cards can really get.

Just looking at sets from the Sword & Shield era alone there is a lot worth collecting. Cards like the Rainbow Rare Pikachu VMax from one of the first Sword & Shield sets Vivid Voltage really proved that modern Pokemon cards can still be a goldmine for newer collectors. This card can be found selling for around $350 in a PSA 10 and that’s only scratching the surface of valuable Pokemon cards from Sword & Shield. This card was unprecedented in Sword and Shield on its release, in fact, the first few sets of Sword & Shield like the base set, Darkness Ablaze, and Vivid Voltage actually contained some of the least valuable pulls in the era. It was with the introduction of alternate arts that these sets started to have consistently good pulls. For example the Tyranitar V alternate art from Battle Styles or the Blaziken VMax alternate art from Chilling Reign. However, with the introduction of Evolving Skies came one of the most expensive alternate arts in modern Pokemon history, the Umbreon VMax alternate art often referred to as the Moonbreon. Ungraded, this card already sells for around $600, and in a PSA 10, the card can be found selling for more than $1000. Then, following shortly behind it in the very same set is the Rayquaza VMax alternate art which is worth around $500 in a PSA 10. This set a new bar for alternate arts and practically ensured that every set after it would have a chase alternate art that was going to be worth a load of money. From the Lugia V Alternate Art all the way to the Golden Giratina VStar alternate art every set was guaranteed to have bangers.

Even before Sword and Shield, however, there were still plenty of cards that were worth a fortune. Take the Rainbow Rare Charizard GX from the Sun and Moon set Burning Shadows for example. This card is now one of the most expensive Charizards of all time despite the set only coming out in 2017. Ungraded alone this card can be found selling for around $300-$400 and in a PSA 10, this Charizard can be found selling for $3000. Then, even before that in the 2016 X & Y set Evolutions, many beloved vintage cards were reintroduced into the TCG, and with them came the Holographic Base Set Charizard which would end up selling for $1500 in a PSA 10.

All of this is without even bringing attention to Japanese-exclusive promos. As the name suggests, Japanese-exclusive promos are promotional cards that can only be acquired in Japan and this exclusivity affects the price way more than you would believe. There have been many over the years but some of the most expensive ones come from the X & Y era of promos which brought about the Poncho Pikachu Series, featuring several promos of Pikachu wearing different Pokemon-themed Ponchos such as Mega Charizard X, Mega Charizard Y, Gyarados, Magikarp Rayquaza and a bunch of others. Many of these can be found selling for more than $2500 in a PSA 10. This era also featured the Mario and Luigi Pikachu which are two of the most sought-after promos in modern Pokemon history just because of how exclusive they are (and the art is pretty awesome) selling for around the same as the poncho Pikachus.

It’s quite easy, when looking at old Pokemon cards to then look at your own collection and question why it just pales in comparison. And the answer to that question is actually pretty simple. There is a direct correlation between card age and card value and this makes sense because typically the older the card is, the rarer the card is. This is especially true in the case of really old cards like Base set and Jungle that come from a time before collecting Pokemon cards and keeping them in mint condition was a relatively common hobby. Half of the people collecting the cards were likely children and an even larger portion were probably completely oblivious to the potential value of their cards in years to come. Therefore, these cards nowadays have a much lower population in good condition.

As well as this, every set of Pokemon stops printing at some point, which inherently increases their rarity as it means there is a truly finite number of packs from that set in the world and then an even smaller amount of good pulls from the set. So, with this in mind, you can probably understand why vintage cards are worth a lot more than newer cards that are currently being released.

At the end of the day, every Pokemon pack is a gamble so it’s hard to pin down what is more cost-efficient if there even is a set that’s more cost-efficient than another. So, if you want to collect cards you should collect them. Don’t let the cost of the cards in the set sway you too much (unless of course, you can’t afford the cards then it probably should sway you).

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Sell Your Pokemon Cards Fast With WeBuyPokeCards

To some, they may just be colourful cardboard, but for you, Pokemon cards are collectables. And when you’re collecting something, you want to ensure they’re safe and protected to preserve their condition. You can’t start that process with cards unless you use card sleeves.

The best sleeve for your Pokemon card is one that fits it snugly without bending the card but gives you enough room to slide the card in safely. It should also be clear enough to showcase the art but without any acids that could leach and affect the card over the years.

Choosing the right sleeve for your collection can take time and effort. Is a penny sleeve sufficient, or should you buy a different one? Do you opt for clear sleeves or coloured ones? How do you display sleeves with unique designs on the back?

We’ll answer these questions to help you pick the right sleeve and list the five best ones you can buy today.

When you’ve already spent a fair amount of money on buying packs or the specific card you want, spending more money on sleeves is the last thing you want to do. But if you want to preserve your card so you can enjoy it throughout the years, you need to do this final step.

That’s because sleeves protect your card from scratches and prevent dust from accumulating on the card’s surface. Sleeves also prevent oil and other particles on your fingertips from coming into contact with the card.

If you’ve ever wondered how a 20-plus-year-old Pokemon card from the 90s managed to keep its pristine condition, sleeves are the answer.

Finding the right sleeve for your Pokemon card can be intimidating and confusing if you don’t know what you want. With different terms, designs, and sizes available, it’s easy to get overwhelmed.

Thankfully, Pokemon cards are “standard-sized” cards, meaning most trading card sleeves you’ll find in stores will fit them. Their exact measurements are 63.5 mm by 88 mm (2.5 in by 3.5 in). Sometimes, their packaging will even mention that the sleeves are compatible with the Pokemon Trading Card Game, which is your cue to buy them.

If you’re unsure, you can bring a spare card for a size comparison or go to a gaming store and ask for advice. Also, be aware that the other popular size for card sleeves, called “small” or “mini,” are a few millimetres smaller than the standard size. You risk damaging your Pokemon cards if you try to use them.

When shopping around for Pokemon card sleeves, you’ll notice that you can buy three different kinds of sleeves: a completely clear sleeve, a solid-coloured back, or one with a graphic on its back. Whichever one you choose is entirely dependent on your preferences.

Clear sleeves are great if you wish to put the card in another holder, such as top loaders or hard cases. They allow you to showcase both sides of the card.

On the other hand, sleeves with a solid-coloured back are great for organisation, such as when you’re trying to keep cards from different sets separate. It’s also ideal for keeping the focus on the card’s art; after all, there isn’t much need to admire the back unless there’s an error.

Lastly, sleeves with a graphic on the back increase your attachment to the card. These sleeves are great for your favourite cards because you can showcase something different on each side – the card’s art on the front and the sleeve design on the back.

Once you’ve decided which sleeve colour you want and found the standard-sized ones, it’s time to pick which sleeve type to buy. Their prices differ but also reflect the differences between them. Let’s examine each type closer.

Penny sleeves

These inexpensive sleeves are named as such because a pack of 100 usually costs around $1. They’re thin, flimsy, and clear all around. Penny sleeves work great as temporary sleeves for your cards, providing adequate protection until you have thicker ones.

However, penny sleeves aren’t recommended for your cards’ long-term storage. That’s because the cards don’t get a snug fit from the sleeve, giving them more room to shift and gather dust. And when you’re storing a card, even the slightest movements throughout the years can cause whitenings on the card edges.

Lastly, penny sleeves are thin and are only about 40 microns in thickness. They don’t provide much protection when it comes to stability; for that, you’ll need thicker sleeves that are at least 100 microns thick.

Perfect-fit sleeves

Thicker than penny sleeves but more expensive, perfect-fit sleeves are what you get when you’re ready to store your cards for the long term. With a thickness of around 100 microns or so, depending on the brand, perfect-fit sleeves will provide the protection you need while showcasing your card’s beauty.

Brands like UltraPro and Dragon Shield dominate the market, so you’ll see them almost everywhere. Other brands exist, although you’re more likely to find them in specialist shops.

When buying a perfect-fit sleeve, ensure the fit matches your preference. Some sleeves keep the card snugly inside while leaving a small border around it; others are so precisely measured it’s as if the card was made with the sleeve already around it.

And then there’s the option of matte vs glossy and solid colours vs graphical designs. Regardless of which one you pick, these sleeves will perform the same job: protect your card so you can show them off safely.

Different trading card sleeve sizes are available, so make sure you pick the right one for your Pokemon cards. Thankfully, Pokemon cards are considered standard-sized, so their sleeves are easier to find in stores.

Remember that while cheaper, penny sleeves are typically larger than perfect-fit ones. If you just need temporary protection, such as when the card’s fresh out of the pack, penny sleeves can do the job. But if you need to transport the cards safely, you want a thicker sleeve that provides a snug fit.

Lastly, make sure the card sleeves are 63.5 mm by 88 mm (2.5 in by 3.5 in). They should be labelled as “standard size,” removing confusion. If the packaging doesn’t mention any dimensions or doesn’t say “standard size” anywhere, it’s likely the wrong size.

Any Pokemon card collector wouldn’t be caught with an unsleeved card in their collection. That’s because the risk is too high for one or more of these to happen:

• Scratches on the card’s surface, especially on the holographic layer
• Whitened edges, more visible from the card’s back
• Creases, especially near the edges
• Card warping, curling, or bending as it’s exposed to moisture and elements
• Visible fraying of the card’s fibres, especially on its corners

These are not the only dangers your card is exposed to when unsleeved, but they’re the most common problems. 

The need for sleeves goes even higher if you wish to send the card for grading. Grading companies follow strict criteria when assigning grades to cards, and they can see microscopic flaws that our naked eyes can’t. For example, a slight scratch on the card caused by rough handling is enough to bring the grade down, even though you may not have noticed it.

Invest in some quality card sleeves to keep your cards safe and protected for a long time.

Any card sleeve list is incomplete without mentioning these inexpensive essentials. Penny sleeves are great to have around because they can protect your card without breaking the bank. They provide adequate temporary protection until you can move the card to its permanent sleeve.

One thing to remember about penny sleeves is that they’re not meant for anything other than temporary storage. If you need to protect a card while trading it to someone or place it in an album sleeve in the meantime, penny sleeves can do the job. But penny sleeves won’t cut it if you want to keep your cards in a binder for years or bring them to tournaments for playing.

Thicker than penny sleeves but thinner than other sleeves, Vault X Exact Fit Card Sleeves are a good step up for your card collection. At 60 microns of thickness, it provides more protection and stability for your cards.

And they’re not lying with the “exact fit” part of its name because it really is a snug, exact fit for the cards. They’re not quite enough for tournament use, but their size makes them perfect for double-sleeving. They should also make inserting the cards into toploaders or album sleeves easier.

Sold in packs of 150, Titan Shield Card Protection Sleeves are a good value, especially when you need to sleeve a lot of cards at once. At 100 microns thick, they provide plenty of protection for your Pokemon cards, regardless of whether you’re storing them or bringing them to a tournament.

The only downside to these sleeves is their size. Even though its inner pockets fit a standard-sized card, its exterior is larger than usual at 66 mm by 91 mm. That extra bit of sleeve could make it difficult to slide within album sleeve pockets.

Dragon Shield sleeves are excellent for those who want to organise their collection further using a colour-coded system. The company offers up to 20 different sleeve colours, including clear, and all of them are sold with an accompanying deck box (the box holds the sleeves inside). If you have many loose cards that need categorising and are waiting for a binder, Dragon Shield has you covered.

Dragon Shield’s sleeve thickness is also top-notch, measuring 120 microns. Not only does it offer excellent protection and stability, but it also looks great for presentation. You no longer have to worry about the sleeve ripping.

The only downside to this sleeve is the price. For 100 sleeves, it can cost around $12/£12, which can be pricey if you need to sleeve an extensive collection.

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Ultra Pro is one of the most well-known brands when it comes to trading card game accessories, so it’s no surprise that its thick card sleeves are at the top of this list.

Although it doesn’t come with a deck box like Dragon Shield, Ultra Pro is also an excellent choice for protecting your Pokemon cards. The sleeve’s front is 90 microns thick, while the back is 120 microns – a measurement that prioritises protection and presentation. It’s easier to determine which side is the front with two different thicknesses.

Even though these sleeves are also available in “Glossy,” we pick matte because it helps avoid glare when viewing the card. Glare is an even more significant problem when taking photos of the card; having a matte sleeve helps resolve that issue.

And although it doesn’t come with a deck box like Dragon Shield, Ultra Pro ultimately wins by having better store availability.

Sell Your Pokemon Cards Fast With WeBuyPokeCards

Opening a Pokemon TCG pack is always an exciting moment. You never know if you’ll get your favorite or valuable chase card until you’ve opened the pack. And as you pull the cards out and eagerly go through each one, you notice that one or more of them has a defect. What now?

Here’s some good news: misprinted Pokemon cards are quite valuable! Depending on the error, it can turn an inexpensive common card into something worth hundreds of dollars. Not bad, huh?

So before you discard that misprinted card, read on to find out how your misprint can turn into something valuable. We’ll even tell you 10 of the most valuable misprinted Pokemon cards to help you decide whether to keep or sell your misprint.

A misprinted Pokemon card is any card that doesn’t look normal. It can be as minor as a missing icon on the card or as significant as a misspelling in the text. Quality checks are meant to catch these cards to remove them from circulation, but a few slip through the cracks. As a result, misprints are incredibly rare.

The name is also a misnomer because a “misprinted” card doesn’t necessarily mean an error on the card text or art. It’s more of a blanket term to describe any error card, including a misalignment or a miscut.

Several kinds of error, or misprint, cards exist in the market, so let’s look at each in detail. We’ve condensed some of the mistakes into one main category because their errors are quite similar, despite their origins.

Error in text

Text errors are one of the “true” misprint errors you could find on a Pokemon card. These errors can be as simple as having an unnecessary period in a word, just like on the Base Set Beedrill card. On its description for the Poison Sting attack, the word “Defending” was printed with a period between the “D” and the “e,” resulting in a description that reads “D.efending.”

And then, there are text errors that result from the Japanese to English adaptation of the cards. The best example is the 1st Edition and Shadowless Base Set Voltorb card, where the description uses the term “Monster Ball” instead of “Poké Ball.”

Of course, many other text errors exist, so the best way to spot one is to examine the card carefully. Even the most minor mistake is enough to pique someone’s interest.

Miscuts

Miscuts are one of the most apparent Pokemon card errors, mainly because of their appearance. Immediately, you’ll notice something’s wrong when you see the card looks different than usual.

Miscut Pokemon cards can be as simple as having the wrong corner; for example, one or all corners of the card is squared instead of their usual rounded shape. Some cards may also have an unnatural shape – neither square nor rounded – on one or more corners.

On the extreme end, you’ll find a card so misshapen it’s not even the whole card anymore. It could be a portion of a card while retaining its typical features or a bizarre cut that should’ve been discarded.

Regardless of which miscut you have, make sure you keep it safe and never throw them away! They may be of little value to your collection, but some collectors deliberately search for these and are willing to pay a handsome amount to acquire them.

Misalignments

Misalignment is another “true” misprint error in Pokemon cards. But determining whether you have an actual misalignment or just a badly-centered card can be tricky.

Some misaligned cards are obvious when you look at them, especially when the image is tilted towards one side. If you’re lucky, you’ll even find a card with two different parts – the top part of one card and the bottom of another. If you have one of these cards, there’s no doubt it’s a misalignment error.

However, there’s a misalignment error that isn’t as obvious as the other two mentioned. At first glance, it just looks like the card is terribly off-centered – that is, the card’s entire graphical content sits way too close to the edge instead of being balanced in the middle. You’ll notice that one or more of the yellow borders (or gray for the Scarlet/Violet set) are thicker than usual.

In this case, you need to find what’s called an “alignment dot.” Look for a black ink dot on one of the corners; be careful because it can look like a random speck of dirt unless you check. If you find it, you have a bona fide misaligned card that grading companies recognize. But if you don’t have one, your card likely has bad centering and nothing more.

Wrong back

Looking at the back of the card is the last thing on our minds when opening a pack or going through our collection, but you shouldn’t ignore it completely. A misprint could happen there too, and you’ll easily miss it if you don’t check.

The most common error on the back of the card is the Inverted Pokeball error. When printed normally, the back should contain the word “Pokemon” twice – one written right side up and the other upside down. Between these texts is a Pokeball that’s cracked open, with a wind effect on its background. The Pokeball should be red on its upper half and white at the bottom.

When the card is right side up when viewed from the front, you should the Pokeball should have the red half on the top. And when the white half is on the top, the other side is typically upside down.

But in some cases, the card’s back is printed upside down – that is, the white half of the Pokeball is at the top when the front of the card is correct. This error is easily missed, especially when the card in question is a chase card and most of the interest is on the front of the card itself.

Holo bleed/holo shift

Holo bleeds and holo shifts are printing errors you’ll find on cards with a holographic layer, including full-art cards. Though they differ slightly in appearance, the cause of this error is similar.

Holo bleed errors happen when the foil layer of the card is too thick and is seen through the paper layer that’s supposed to obscure it. You’ll find this error exclusively on regular holo cards, where only the card art has a holographic background and the rest should be regularly textured. You’ll see the holo pattern beyond the card art frame if you have a holo bleed.

Holo shift, on the other hand, is exclusive to newer cards that are textured. These are usually considered “full arts” – cards with artwork extending throughout the card. When you have a holo shift error, it may look like the card is blurry or in layers. That’s because the foil layer has “shifted” or moved during printing, creating a misaligned image that looks strange.

Stains/Printer Hickeys

Do you have a card with a stain that isn’t supposed to be there, and you’re worried that this blemish will bring down the card’s value? Don’t worry – you have a card with a printer hickey error.

Factory-stained cards, or printer hickeys, occur when the printhead encounters an error or is dirty. It could be that the printhead experienced a momentary release of too much ink, or a small piece of dirt has burned into the card along with the ink. Regardless of the cause, this leaves a stain on the card’s surface.

Printer hickey errors typically must be authenticated by a reputable third party because of possible fakes. People could always use a pen or a marker to create a “stain” and sell it. Third-party authenticators, such as grading companies, can look at the card’s surface using a powerful magnifier to determine whether the ink stain is above all the card’s layers (artificial stain) or underneath a layer (factory-printed stain).

Stains can be as minor as an extra dot somewhere on the card (not to be confused with a text error or alignment dot) or large enough to obscure parts of the card.

Although they may seem like one, shadowless cards are not actually a misprint. Misprints are unintended mistakes caused by a slip in quality control or other mechanical error. Shadowless cards do not fall into this category.

That’s because non-first edition shadowless cards were meant to be the halfway point between first edition cards and unlimited print. At the time, Wizards of the Coast were trying to determine the best way to differentiate first edition from unlimited. They trialed with shadowless cards before ultimately deciding to add a drop shadow on the art frame of unlimited cards.

Misprints are indeed rare and valuable, but not in the same way as a regular chase or grail card.

A misprint’s rarity relies on the fact that it’s a mistake and how quickly it was corrected. Having a text error alone isn’t enough to drive its price; it must also be updated immediately. Otherwise, it becomes a common novelty, or worse, more common than the corrected version.

A classic example of a common, uncorrected mistake is the Dark Arbok card from the Team Rocket set. Both the holographic and non-holographic versions of the card have “23000” instead of “2000” on their copyright date. This was never corrected, so this misprint is a common one that doesn’t add any value.

Curious about some of the misprint card values in the market? Don’t worry – we’ve compiled some of them for you. Remember that the misprint collector’s market is quite a niche market, and some sales happen privately instead of on marketplaces, so this list serves as a rough guide.

This error is easy to miss, but looking closely at a Diglett card with this error will reveal that the Fighting energy symbol for Dig is rotated 90 degrees to the left. As a result, the energy symbol has the fist pointing to the left instead of upwards.

Diglett cards with this error sell for $200, while a regular one only sells for a fifth of its price at $40.

Even modern Japanese cards aren’t immune to errors, and this Charizard card from the VMAX Climax set is no exception.

A non-error Charizard card should have a holographic background with vertical lines appearing with light, giving it more of a textured look. However, this error card has the wrong holo foil texture – it’s completely smooth.

Incorrect Holo Charizards sell for $300, nearly ten times more than their regular counterpart at $33.

Under normal circumstances, the Krabby card in the Fossil set is just another ordinary common card. The most expensive one sells for an average of $27, which is affordable for starting collectors. But the price changes if the same card bears the “Claw Slash” error.

“Claw Slash” is the term used to describe a misprint where a white slash is on top of the claw symbol for the Fossil Set. It’s likely that an obstruction on the print head caused this “slash” effect.

Krabby cards with this error sell for up to $300 – over ten times the price of the most expensive non-error card.

The Squirtle line is prone to errors, with its evolution cards being the subject of mistakes. This time, the unlimited print of the Wartortle card contained a design error on the evolution box; instead of showing Squirtle there, an image of Wartortle was printed.

This evolution box error card sells for about $400; for comparison, the most expensive non-error Wartortle card is $62.

Jungle Set is one of the sets that still had a “1st edition” run, which makes this Butterfree error interesting. Instead of “1” appearing on the edition stamp, it looks as if there’s a “d” on there instead. That’s caused by an ink blot during the printing process.

Butterfree “d” edition cards sell for about $400, which is twice as much as their non-error counterpart.

Everyone knows that the Blastoise card from the Base Set is popular, but what if you add an error on the card as well? That’s exactly what happened when someone sold their Blastoise card with a “Stage Error.” A printing error prevented the word “Stage” from appearing correctly on the top right corner of the card.

At the time of writing, only a Beckett 9 has been sold in the market for $999, which is already over twice as much as a non-error Blastoise of the same grade. Imagine how much higher the price would have been if a PSA 10 version of this error card existed.

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Upside-down errors are interesting for collectors because it requires them to feature the card’s back instead of the front, and this Pop Series 5 Mew #3 card is no exception. This card’s most expensive non-error version sold at just over $1,000, while one with an upside-down back error went for $910 last year.

Those who went to see Pokemon the Movie 2000 in cinemas during its first week of release received a sealed Ancient Mew promo card. This promotion was active worldwide, and guests received a promo card based on that country’s language.

For cinema-goers in Japan, they received a Japanese version of the card, but with a text error. Instead of the copyright text saying “Nintendo,” it’s missing the third -n. As a result, the first print of the Japanese promo cards says “Nintedo” at the bottom.

This error was subsequently corrected, along with a change on its holofoil surface. The lucky ones who received the error card can sell theirs today for $1,200. Compare that to the corrected version, which only sells for over $400.

Though technically not a card, this Base Set Booster Pack error contains a fascinating story.

When Wizards of the Coast started distributing unlimited cards, the earlier packs still had the 1st Edition stamp on them. Instead of discarding the already-made packs, they put a black triangle to obscure the 1st edition stamp on the pack itself, then proceeded to put the unlimited cards inside as intended.

Nowadays, an unopened pack with the triangle error sells for over $2,500. That’s a far cry from the $1,000 average price of a regular unlimited booster pack.

During the 1st edition print of the Team Rocket set, Dark Dragonite 5/82 was mistakenly printed as a non-holo when it was supposed to be holographic. That’s because the first 17 cards of the set are all holographic; afterwards, they’re repeated in order but as a non-holo. As a result, Dark Dragonite 5/82 and 22/82 were both non-holo for a while.

This error card sells for over $3,200 in the market – a considerable amount for a card with the wrong texture. A proper 1st Edition Dark Dragonite 5/82 sells for a little over $2,300.

Sell Your Pokemon Cards Fast With WeBuyPokeCards

Pokemon card collecting has exploded these past few years. From multimillion-dollar card sales to your average couple-of-hundred dollar price tags, the Pokemon card craze has everyone crawling through their attics to dig out their childhood collection.

Are you one of the lucky folks who stashed their old binder of Pokemon cards and are now ready to cash them in? If so, buckle up – we’ll tell you the ten most valuable base set Pokemon cards.

Before we get excited and see dollar signs everywhere, let’s establish what a base set Pokemon card is first.

Base set refers to the first set of Pokemon cards released in Japan in 1996 and the rest of the English-speaking world in 1999. They feature first-generation Pokemon, items, and characters, which you would’ve seen in the first Pokemon games.

Although the Japanese cards capture the attention of collectors even today, it’s the 102 English cards that really drive the market wild. That’s because there are three different types of English base set cards: 1st edition shadowless, shadowless, and unlimited. Their differences are minor, but they can swing the price towards the thousands for the right card.

Let’s look briefly at each one to understand why they vary so much in price.

1st Edition Shadowless Cards

As the name suggests, 1st edition cards are the first-print cards that Wizards of the Coast (WOTC) released on the market. They were a limited run – once the packs sold out, that was it. And that scarcity makes them very desirable (and expensive!) today.

1st edition cards have a unique identifier on the card that should immediately grab your attention. A stamp at the bottom left corner of the artwork frame will say “EDITION 1.” The “1” should be in a black circle, and the word “EDITION” should surround its upper half.

Another identifier is the lack of a drop shadow on the bottom right of the artwork frame. It should just be the frame border surrounding the artwork and nothing else around it. You could even say the artwork looks a bit “flat” without it.

Shadowless Cards

Once WOTC finished the 1st edition run, they removed the 1st edition stamp on the cards but continued printing them as shadowless. They look similar to the 1st edition cards – no drop shadow on the artwork frame – but without the telltale stamp on the bottom left corner.

Shadowless cards are not as expensive as 1st edition cards, but they still command a reasonable price on the market. WOTC didn’t print as many of these cards, so they’re still quite scarce despite not being the first run.

Unlimited cards

After the shadowless cards print run, WOTC started printing the unlimited edition cards. Most cards on the market are unlimited because they were printed until the next set came out.

Unlimited cards are easy to spot, with the first giveaway being the drop shadow at the bottom right of the artwork frame. The card is no longer shadowless, so to speak. And of course, it doesn’t have the 1st edition stamp.

Another indicator is the copyright years at the bottom of the card. 1st edition and shadowless cards will say “1995, 96, 98, 99.” Unlimited cards don’t have the 99, instead only saying, “1995, 96, 98.”

Certain unlimited cards still fetch a decent price on the market, but not as much as their 1st edition and shadowless counterparts.

Ken Sugimori’s cream-colored Ninetales sits majestically on a blue holographic foil background, giving it a nice contrast against the reddish orange card. It’s definitely a simple yet graceful card, befitting the nine-tailed fire fox.

It seems collectors also agree because a gem mint 1st edition shadowless card goes for over $9,100. Meanwhile, a regular shadowless card is about half the price of its 1st edition counterpart – $4,600 in a PSA 10. And for the budget conscious, an unlimited Ninetales costs a fraction of the shadowless version, coming in at $450.

Who would’ve thought a seemingly useless Magikarp would evolve into a formidable Gyarados? Mitsuhiro Arita did an excellent job with this card, too – a side profile featuring Gyarados in a yellow and blue scale, with a sparkly holographic foil backdrop on a blue card. No wonder collectors love this card!

If you want to get your hands on one, a gem mint shadowless card (but not 1st edition) is only about $2,300 in a PSA 10. But if you want to go all in and grab a 1st edition shadowless Gyarados, be prepared to spend over $10,000 for one in a PSA 10. And if you don’t feel like paying such high prices, a gem mint unlimited Gyarados is $510.

There’s something fascinating about a single Magnemite attaching itself to two others, thus creating the fearsome Magneton. And that’s exactly what we got when Keiji Kinebuchi illustrated Magneton for this card: a Pokemon that looks alert and ready to deliver a painful electric shock.

Collectors are also in for a sticker shock once they discover that a gem mint 1st edition PSA 10 Magneton card is worth $11,450. Thankfully, the regular shadowless card doesn’t sting as much, costing nearly 90 percent less than its PSA 10 1st edition counterpart at $1,275. The gem mint unlimited card is still cheaper, drawing in only $356 from the market.

Mewtwo’s status as a legendary Pokemon helps cement this card as one of the most valuable base set cards. Illustrated by Ken Sugimori himself, this purple Mewtwo card features artwork that makes the Pokemon look slightly smaller and less menacing. The starry, holographic foil background gives Mewtwo a somewhat more mysterious aura.

A 1st edition shadowless Mewtwo in gem mint condition will cost buyers nearly $11,500, while a regular shadowless version in the same condition is about $3,000. But if you’re on a tighter budget, a gem mint unlimited Mewtwo card is only about $620 – a much more manageable price than the other two.

Since Pokemon’s beginning, fans have debated whether Hitmonchan or Hitmonlee was the better pick. When it comes to base set cards, it looks like Ken Sugimori’s ready-to-box Hitmonchan won that debate handily.

And here’s how Hitmonchan claimed the crown: a gem mint 1st edition card sells for $12,000. As for Hitmonlee… well, the poor Pokemon didn’t get its card representation until a few sets later, when the Fossil set was released. By then, Hitmonchan has already soared to the top of the price charts.

Not having the franchise’s mascot on the top five of this list would be an injustice, but that isn’t the case this time.

However, not all Pikachus are made equally. WOTC printed two versions of this card: one with red cheeks and one with yellow, both with 1st edition and shadowless versions. Once it was time to print unlimited cards, WOTC only printed the yellow cheeks version, making red cheeks more scarce and desirable.

Believe it or not, a 1st edition red cheeks Pikachu isn’t even the most valuable card of its kind, commanding only $4,300 on the market. Instead, the most expensive Pikachu card belongs to the Pikachu E3 red cheeks card, worth an impressive $12,500 when gem mint.

What makes the Pikachu E3 red cheeks card so unique? The fact that Nintendo only gave it to Nintendo booth visitors during E3 1999 made it valuable and rare. You’ll know you have one when a gold “E3” is written in gold foil at the bottom right corner of the artwork.

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As the final evolution of one of the three original Pokemon starters, it’s no surprise that the green Venusaur card is on this list. Illustrator Mitsuhiro Arita did a great job portraying this creature, too: large and chunky, with a stance and expression that indicates it’s ready to fight when threatened.

Even its prices are ready to fight because a gem mint 1st edition shadowless card is worth a hefty sum of $19,000. However, its value exponentially decreases once the card loses its 1st edition status, with regular shadowless card prices down to just over $2,900. And if you have the unlimited card, that’s only about $1,200.

It’s quite fitting that we encounter a Blastoise card near the top of the list; after all, Blastoise is the final evolution of one of the more popular Generation 1 starter. The card is lovely, too, with Ken Sugimori portraying Blastoise as a turtle ready to go with its water cannons without looking too menacing.

This is also where the prices vary wildly depending on your card. Gem mint 1st edition Blastoise cards sell for over $23,000. A regular shadowless card can net you a little over $6,800 – a steep dropoff compared to its 1st edition counterpart. Unlimited cards go even lower at $2,900.

If you think the three most expensive base set Pokemon cards are the starter evolutions, think again. This happy, helpful, egg-carrying Chansey, with artwork by Ken Sugimori, blasts its way to number 2.

Intrigued? That’s because a gem mint 1st edition shadowless Chansey card is worth a whopping $31,200 – over $8,000 more than a Blastoise card with the same pedigree. 

Oddly enough, a regular shadowless and an unlimited Chansey card are neck-to-neck with their $2,600 price. Currently, the unlimited card is worth about $70 more than the shadowless, but that’s bound to change as the markets shift.

You don’t have to be a Pokemon card expert to know this is the holy grail. Nearly everyone can recognize Mitsuhiro Arita’s art of a Charizard about to breathe fire through its open mouth, all on a reddish-orange card. 

If you have one of these cards in your collection, you’ll rake in some serious cash. And that cash only goes higher as your card’s condition and edition improve.

Let’s put it this way: a gem mint English 1st edition shadowless PSA 10 Charizard card will make you over $36,000 richer. Even the non-1st edition but still shadowless version in a PSA 10 is not that far behind, commanding a market price of $33,000. And if you have the unlimited Charizard card, it can still fetch you a handsome price of $8,700.

Determining base set Pokemon card prices can be mind-boggling, especially for cards like Blastoise and Charizard. Who would’ve thought that a nearly 30-year-old colorful piece of cardboard could fetch so much cash in the market? Nostalgia, demand, and character attachment truly are powerful marketing tools when it comes to Pokemon cards.

So what are you waiting for? Dig up those old binders of yours and start looking through your cards. You could be holding on to a treasure trove without knowing it.

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If you’re a more seasoned collector of the Pokemon TCG then you may recall a time when The Pokemon Company was producing cards known as Break cards. These cards were first introduced to English cards in the cleverly named “BREAKthrough” expansion way back in November 2015. These cards continued to appear in English sets throughout the X & Y era of Pokemon such as BREAKpoint, Fates Collide, Steam Siege, Evolutions, etc. They are a special kind of evolution card that are classed as their own type, meaning that cannot be pulled from your deck with cards that do things like “draw an evolution card from your deck”.

Probably the most distinguishable feature of BREAK cards is that the art of the card is displayed horizontally as opposed to vertically like most full art cards. As well as this the art is always a golden CGI version of the Pokemon on BREAK cards which is a cool touch. However, if you were collecting at the time of these cards’ release you might remember these cards not being particularly popular at the time. People weren’t too fond of the horizontal art nor were they huge fans of the Pokemon being almost unidentifiable under the gold texture. Even to this day, nobody is leaping at the opportunity to get their hands on a BREAK card which raises the question, what are the most valuable BREAK Pokemon cards?

Taking the first spot on this list is a recognizable first-generation fire-type in Ninetales. It comes from what is likely the most famous X & Y set: Evolutions. This set was released in 2016 and notoriously re-released the fabled holographic, base-set Charizard. This Ninetales is by no means a big-hitter in this set and is actually one of the less valuable cards but in the scope of BREAK cards, it’s fairly expensive, selling for around $38 in a PSA 10.

Next comes a fan-favorite dragon type from the video game franchise, Hydreigon. This card comes from what is rated as one of the worst Pokemon sets of all time 2016’s Steam Siege. When it comes to sets with nothing to pull, Steam Siege trumps them all. Even in 2023, the biggest hits from this set are only worth around $90 in a PSA 10. However, as we said before, the bar isn’t exactly set super high when it comes to the value of BREAK cards so when we say that this card is worth about $46 it’s pretty impressive.

At number 6 is the Pokemon Y mascot and legendary, Yveltal, also coming from the 2016 set Steam Siege, this card is marginally more expensive than the Hydreigon. In a PSA 10 this card can be found selling for around $50 however, this is subject to change. 

Now, coming from the aforementioned 2015 set BREAKthrough, we have the generation V, dark type Pokemon, Zoroark. This was the set that introduced the BREAK mechanic into the game but for some reason just didn’t really have that many huge pulls in it. In a set choked full of Mewtwos that everyone is looking to get a hold of, the Zoroark was slightly overshadowed. Nonetheless, this card can be found selling for around $60 in a PSA 10.

Although we just said Zoroark is one of the only worthwhile BREAK cards from the debut BREAK set, there is one exception to this and that is the Marowak BREAK card from the very same set. Now we are starting to enter the region of reasonably valuable cards as this Marowak can be found selling for upwards of $90 in a PSA 10. This card is not only valuable in the scope of all BREAK cards but is actually one of the more expensive cards in the whole set itself.

Now we have the first card on the list that breaks the $100 threshold and it comes in the form of the second-generation (Silver) Legendary and mascot. It’s unsurprising that this card actually sells for so much as typically when the Pokemon Company slaps a nostalgic Pokemon onto any card, its value immediately increases (I’m looking at you Charizard and Pikachu). Coming from the set Fates Collide, this card can be found selling for around $100 in a PSA 10.

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Taking the bronze medal on this list we have a less common face in the Pokemon TCG, Raticate. This normal-type Pokemon comes from the first generation of Pokemon and isn’t a particularly popular Pokemon by any means. In fact, it is probably one of the much less popular first-generation Pokemon out there. Regardless, this card, coming from the set BREAKthrough is one of the most expensive BREAK cards you can get your hands on, coming in at about $100. However, this has been known to fluctuate in the past which is why we have put it above the Lugia.

Coming in at number two we have one of the most popular water-type starters in the Pokemon franchise, even making its way into the Super Smash Bros roster, Greninja. Making his debut in generation six of Pokemon, Greninja is among some of the most notable water-type starters like Blastoise, Feraligatr, etc. Because of this, it’s unsurprising that it made its way to such a high spot on the list. This card comes from the set BREAKpoint and can cost more than $117 in a PSA 10.

Now here’s a gold medalist you probably didn’t expect.  For a lot of you reading this, you may have never even heard of the Pokemon Florges and I don’t blame you. Florges isn’t by any means the poster boy of Pokemon, in fact, its card type, (fairy) was discontinued after X and Y  which is what makes it so surprising that this card is worth so much in a PSA 10. There doesn’t appear to be a reason that I could really point to as to why this card is worth so much but it’s worth quite a bit nonetheless. Coming from the set BREAKthrough, in a PSA 10 you can find this card selling for more than $130.

There are quite a few reasons why people hate BREAK cards but the most glaring issue with them seems to be their design. One factor that will always affect the value of a card is the quality of the card’s art. If a card is ugly, it doesn’t have much value to collectors beyond the card population and people can seem to unanimously agree that BREAK cards aren’t the prettiest cards in the world. Everything from their horizontal artwork to their weird gold finish just made them extremely unpopular amongst fans and possibly the worst sin of all they never made a Charizard BREAK card.

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Trying to sell your childhood Pokemon card collection can be confusing if you don’t know some key terminologies. Terms such as “1st edition” and “shadowless” are enough to make someone’s head spin if encountered without context. Thankfully, learning those terms only takes a few minutes and can save you loads of headaches.

Shadowless Pokemon cards are among the franchise’s most valuable and sought-after collectibles. These rare cards feature a minor difference from their more common counterparts, making them highly desirable to collectors. 

Shadowless cards easily fetch thousands of dollars depending on their condition. Let’s look further into how to identify them and what makes them so valuable.

Shadowless Pokemon cards are extremely rare nowadays and it takes less than a glance to spot one.

If you notice a base set card without any drop shadow on its artwork frame, that’s a shadowless card. You can then perform other checks, such as checking if it’s 1st edition, confirming the copyright years at the bottom, or if it’s a real one instead of a fake card.

What’s the difference between 1st edition shadowless and regular shadowless?

There are two kinds of shadowless cards: 1st edition and regular. There’s only one significant difference between them, but that’s enough to create a gulf in their price. So how do you tell them apart?

The main differentiator between the two cards is the presence of the 1st edition stamp on the card. At the bottom left of the artwork frame is a “1,” and the word “EDITION” is written above it in a semi-circle. Without that stamp, the card is just a regular shadowless card.

Identifying a shadowless Pokemon card is easy, and the best way to do it is to look at the frame surrounding the artwork. You want to focus on the right side because that’s where you’ll find the difference between a shadowless and an unlimited card.

You’re looking for a black line, called a drop shadow, on the right side of the artwork frame. If there is one, you’re looking at an unlimited version of that card. But if there isn’t a drop shadow, congratulations – you have a shadowless Pokemon card.

Another indicator of a shadowless card is the copyright year at the bottom. You don’t need to read the entire line; you only need to find “1999” on the card. 

Of course, all 1st edition cards (except Machamp from the base set) are shadowless. So if you find that “1st EDITION” logo at the bottom left corner of the artwork frame, then you’re guaranteed to have a shadowless card.

You may have noticed earlier that we excluded Machamp when discussing 1st edition cards being shadowless. That’s because the Machamp card from the base set has an oddity: all of them, even ones that aren’t shadowless, have the 1st edition stamp.

So why are all Machamp cards 1st edition? That’s because Wizards of the Coast included a 1st edition Machamp card in the Pokemon TCG 2-Player Starter Set. The card was a bonus on the starter set – it was the only Stage 2 Pokemon in the deck. 

Additionally, Machamp was never in any booster packs, so most Machamp cards in public hands are 1st Edition. The only non-1st Edition Machamp card was found in Trainer Deck A, sent to Pokemon Leagues before the TCG’s official launch; these cards have “Trainer Deck A” stamped on the back. There weren’t a lot of them, and they are very rare.

However, when they started printing unlimited cards, WOTC never removed the 1st Edition stamp on Machamp. As a result, two versions of 1st Edition Machamp exist: shadowless and shadowed.

Spotting a shadowless card when it’s right in front of you is easy, but what about booster packs? How can you tell if your booster pack contains shadowless cards without opening it?

For 1st edition shadowless cards, the method is straightforward. All you need to do is look for the same 1st edition logo on the pack. It will be near the bottom, to the right of the red box that says “TRADING CARD GAME.”

If the pack doesn’t have the 1st edition logo, don’t fret – you can still determine whether it’s shadowless without opening it. Here’s how:

• The red “TRADING CARD GAME” logo is the first to look for. If it’s still at the bottom, it’s shadowless. But it’s unlimited if it’s at the top of the pack. 
• If the pack says “11 Tradeable Game Cards,” you have a shadowless pack. Unlimited card packs will say “11 Additional Game Cards.”
• If you can hold the pack yourself (i.e., it’s not in a display case), the back of shadowless packs will say, “Each player must have a Deck of Pokemon cards to play. Collect all four theme decks!”

Believe it or not, only Base Set cards have shadowless versions; the rest do not. Shadowless cards exist because Wizards of the Coast, the company handling the printing of Pokemon cards at the time, was experimenting with card layouts. WOTC knew 1st edition cards had to be a limited run, but they weren’t sure what subtle differences they could add to each card edition.

As a result, shadowless cards served as an in-between print to determine how a card would look without the 1st edition stamp. And considering its short print run, it’s clear that WOTC wasn’t entirely happy with the card’s appearance before settling with a drop shadow on the frame.

By the time WOTC started printing Jungle set cards, shadowless cards were no longer a thing; they were printing only 1st edition and unlimited cards. And although 1st edition cards existed until the Neo Destiny set (except for Base Set 2, which never had a 1st edition), those cards were never shadowless.

Shadowless cards are worth a lot of money, even for the common cards. Their rarity drives up the prices; it doesn’t help that there are fewer of them each year as more cards get settled into people’s collections. And if the card is a 1st edition shadowless, its value goes up exponentially.

Here are five of the most expensive shadowless cards:

• Charizard 4/102 1st edition: $36,766
• Charizard 4/102 regular shadowless: $33,092
• Chansey 3/102 1st edition: $31,206
• Blastoise 2/102 1st edition: $23,433
• Venusaur 15/102 1st edition: $19,000

Finding a shadowless card in your collection can be exhilarating, especially considering its potential value. Diligently performing a few simple checks can save you the regret of underpricing it as an unlimited edition card. As long as you take a few seconds to glance at the card’s characteristics, you know you can set a value on your card correctly.

So the next time you go through your childhood binder or go searching through someone’s collection, take a few moments to look at each card in detail. You’ll never know what kind of treasures you’ll find with a careful eye.

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